How to shorten a bicycle chain at home. How to shorten a chain on a bicycle: practical recommendations
This is, for example, if it is stretched and you need to dismantle one or more links. Or you just decided to thoroughly clean it of dirt (which is what we will do today). And this is not difficult if it has a special removable chain lock, but what to do with a chain that does not have one? Today we will look at how to remove a chain using an example.
Chain components
Before we talk about how to remove a chain, it is necessary that you understand what we are talking about we're talking about. To do this, below we will provide an explanatory picture with the constituent elements.
Clean the chain before removing
We put the chain on medium sprockets (for example, 2 - 5). Take an old dirty rag. We wrap the chain and rotate the pedals back. It will not be possible to achieve perfect cleaning, because some of the oil and dirt is on the sprockets and when rotating, it again sticks to the chain. Therefore, we stop rotating the pedals and clear a small gap (10-20 cm) between the stars. This is where we will disconnect bicycle chain.
Squeeze out the pin
I use the cheapest chain squeezer available (about $4) and it does the job just fine.
We insert the link into the grooves (as in the picture), tighten it with a clamping bolt (it has a spring-loaded rod in the middle, where the pin will come out) and squeeze out the pin. You should act carefully so that the release rod hits the pin clearly. There is no need to rush and in case of failure, you should correct the chain and repeat the procedure.
After you have set everything correctly, we begin to carefully rotate the knob clockwise. If you do not need to dismantle the link, but just want to disconnect the chain, then the pin should not be pushed out completely. Initially it will be tight, then a little easier, and at the end it will be tight again. At the last stage, you should slow down and act carefully so as not to completely push out the pin (inserting it back will be problematic). You can safely remove the squeezer and see how much more you need to turn the handle.
After this, we disconnect the chain (you should remember that the chain is under tension, and so that it does not fly away and scratch your bike stays, you should hold it).
Cleaning the chain, front and rear sprockets
After you have removed the chain, you can safely attach it to various water procedures. If a soap solution is used (this also includes other detergents/cleaning agents), after cleaning it should be rinsed thoroughly with clean water. Upon completion of the cleaning stage, we send it to dry. There are no special problems with cleaning the stars either. Please note the following: if your bicycle has disc brakes, then the disc must first be removed from the wheel so that when cleaning the cassette, oil and dirt do not fly onto it (if this is not done, you will also have to degrease the brake disc). We rinse everything with clean water and wait until it dries.
Putting the chain back
We pass the chain between the rollers of the rear derailleur and do not forget about the frame of the front derailleur. In the picture we will show how the bicycle chain should be positioned.
We insert the links into each other (if everything was done correctly at the disconnection stage, then the chain should hold).
After this, we inspect the junction. The pin should come out evenly from both sides of the chain. We check the link, it should move without any effort (like all the others). After that, all that remains is to lubricate the chain and enjoy cycling.
Conclusion
In this article, you fully learned how to remove a bicycle chain that does not have a lock. Having completed all the operations, you can safely dismantle the chain without fear of incorrect actions.
A chain breaking on a bicycle is a fairly rare occurrence, but to prevent it from taking you by surprise while on the road, it is best to arm yourself with a special tool. It will allow you to quickly and painlessly deal with the problem.
Bicycle chain repair on the road
Most often, chain breakage is associated with broken links; this happens for two main reasons:Great wear;
Rupture due to gear shifting at high speed.
Causes of failure
You need to constantly monitor the condition of the chain so that wear does not catch you during a long journey. To determine wear, just check the tension - if it is loose, it’s time to think about replacing it. Under no circumstances should you go on a long journey if you find that a part is severely worn. Broken links also occur due to improper use. This most often occurs when changing forward gear at high speed. The connecting elements may simply not withstand strong pressure and fly apart. There are plenty of other reasons why you might need to repair your bike chain. But these happen extremely rarely, one might say, 1 in 1000 cases. For example, a stone or other foreign object getting into the chain. The reason for the repair was that the chain on the bike began to fall off very often.
When inspecting the chain, we check the serviceability of the chain lock. All OK
Repair
Repairing a bicycle chain can be done with tools found in any home. To do this, use a hammer, chisel and pliers. This is a classic option. But on the road it is not relevant. It is simply impossible and not advisable to place all this in a bicycle glove compartment. Today, a two-wheeled vehicle comes complete with a certain set of tools, including a special tool for repairing a chain (squeezer). It can also be purchased separately. The advantages of using such a mechanism are obvious:- High repair speed;
- Clean work;
- Small sizes;
- Easy to use.
We find the faulty link, but we will not disconnect this link, but the lock.
Here we find the faulty link
Separation of links
Before starting repair work, after discovering a breakdown, turn the bike over. Inspect the location of the damage: one end of the chain needs to be replaced (less often, two). It is necessary to remove two links from the damaged one at once. This is necessary so that you can connect two different types of links. In a bicycle chain, the types of links alternate, and two identical ones cannot be connected. The area that needs repair must be placed in the groove of the installation tool. To push out the pin, turn the handle of the device. There is no need to push it all the way out. There is enough distance to separate the links.
A bicycle chain lock consists of three parts:
- main part
- double washer
- split washer
Checking chain stretch
In fact, the chain does not stretch, the links are simply worn out. But if you take a chain folded in two and lift it horizontally, it will seem that the chain has stretched out. Our old chain does not have much deflection (compared to the new one), so it can be used in the future.
checking chain stretch (new) bending is minimal, can be used
Checking the links of the new chain
compare the lengths of the chains (how much needs to be cut)
A
b
Connection of links
The connection must be made only with the chain on. To complete the bike chain repair, you need to close it. It is best to do this with a partner, because during installation it is necessary to strongly stretch the element itself, while ensuring symmetry. The pin should fit neatly into the grooves without bevels. The installation itself is completed in the reverse order in relation to dismantling: the pin is screwed in completely with a device for repairing the circuit. It is important not to overdo it so as not to break it.
Anyone who has already changed a chain on a mountain bike has probably had the thought: can’t it be made more durable? Like they were on Soviet bicycles. And indeed, at first glance, the chain on them showed no wear, and on an MTB it lasts for a year (those who rarely ride, of course use it longer). In this article we will tell you why this is the case, as well as how to determine chain wear, how to change it and how to choose a new one.
Firstly, why do bicycles use a chain?, and not a belt or cardan drive? It is generally used (see picture), there are even more unusual solutions, but this is not the topic of this article. The disadvantages of a chain drive are obvious: fairly rapid wear and the need for frequent operation. But the chain is used because it is a fairly strong and rigid type of drive with low mechanical losses. And most importantly, it’s quite simple to organize gear shifting.
Why did the chain last longer on Soviet bicycles? Most Soviet bicycles were single-speed, and the chain was always in a parallel plane with the sprockets. And the greater the bend of the chain relative to the parallel, the greater its wear. U mountain bike for each of the system stars there are from 3 to 5 cassette stars! The system usually has 2 or 3 stars, and the cassette has up to 10 stars, so distortions are inevitable.
But there were also Soviet bicycles with speeds and the chains on them lasted longer. Why did this happen? Do you remember how they switched gears? To shift, you had to move the chain a little further than the sprocket, and then move it back. And how it switches now - there’s a click and the chain is clearly in the right place, not to mention the possibility of resetting 3-4 speeds at once (of course, with the correct one). For such precise operation of modern index switches, the height of the teeth of the stars had to be sacrificed. On Soviet ones they were the same height as the chain links, but on mountain bikes they barely reach the middle. Hence the maximum stretch (to which we will return below) of the chain, at which it begins to slip over the teeth of the sprockets: for Soviet bicycles it is 6-8 mm per 24 links, and for MTB starting from 3 mm it is no longer possible to ride.
Modern chains are stronger and more reliable, but due to all of the above, as well as the dirt in which mountain bike chains sometimes have to work, their service life is lower than that of Soviet bicycles.
What is a modern chain? This is a single-row roller chain with a pitch of 12.7 mm, each link consists of two plates, the links are connected to each other by pins with a roller (see picture). Depending on the number of stars in the cassette, the chain can be of different widths. Accordingly, when the question arises about replacing the chain, you need to choose a chain for the cassette installed on the mountain bike. The most famous chain manufacturers are SRAM and KMC. They are all interchangeable, i.e. if the bike, for example, has a Shimano cassette, then it is not necessary to install a chain from the same manufacturer. You just need, as already mentioned, for a cassette with 7-8 stars, take a chain for 8 gears, for a cassette with 9 stars - a chain for 9 gears and for 10 - 10. As for the quality of chains, each manufacturer has chains of both high, and low level. But according to rough estimates, among the chains of the low and medium price range, the best are Sram, and the worst are KMC, high-level chains from all manufacturers of excellent quality.
To make it easier for you select a new chain, we present chain markings (for 2011) each of the mentioned manufacturers. For each company and for each cassette, the listing goes from simpler to more advanced. In almost all companies, the quality of the chain is included in the last 2 digits in the name: the higher this number, the better the chain (and, accordingly, more expensive). KMC chains also have color differences: the lower and middle levels are gray and silver, and the high (X series) are gold (except for the X8 chain for 8 gears).
Shimano chains
for 7-8 gears: CN-HG40, CN-HG50, CN-IG70, CN-HG70, CN-HG91
(there are also chains of the CN-UG** series - but they are of very low quality)
for 9 gears: CN-HG53, CN-HG73, CN-HG93 and CN-7701
for 10 gears: CN-HG74, CN-HG94 CN-5600, CN-5701, CN-6600, CN-6701, CN-7901 and CN-M980
SRAM chains
for 7-8 gears: PC-830, PC-850, PC-870 and PC-890
9 gears: PC-951, PC-971, PC-991 Cross step and PC-991 Hollow pin
for 10 gears: PC-1031, PC-1051, PC-1071, PC-1091 and PC-1091R
KMC chains
7 gears: Z50, Z51, Z51RB
for 8 gears: Z72, Z82, Z92, Z7, Z8, Z8RB, Z92RB and X8
9 gears: Z99RB, Z99, X9, X9L and X9SL
for 10 gears: X10, X10L, X10EL and X10SL
for 11 gears: X11L, X11SL
Why do you need to be able to determine chain wear? The chain wears out evenly throughout its service life, but its resource is approximately 3 times less than the resource of the cassette (the sprocket block on the rear wheel). And if the chain is heavily worn, then it will quickly “kill” the cassette, and possibly also 1 or all the stars of the system. And then you will have to change them all and spend a lot of money accordingly. To prevent this, you must not waste time
Determining the life of a chain by mileage (which you can look at) is wrong, because... one ride through fords and mud is equivalent to several times higher mileage on the asphalt. There are other factors that reduce the life of the chain. Therefore, a more accurate method is used - measuring the length of 24 chain links (distance L in the figure). 
With the new chain, this distance is exactly 12 inches (304.8 mm). You need to measure a little taut chain and it is better to use not a ruler, but a more precise tool - a special-caliber caliper. Based on the measurement results, one of the following conclusions can be drawn:
Now about that how to remove and install a chain. Nowadays, almost all chains have a special connecting link. For Shimano chains, you used to have to buy it separately, and even now only some of their chains come equipped with it. If it is not there, then to install the chain you will need a special tool - a squeezer. In general, it will be needed in any case when installing a new chain, which will need to be shortened to the same number of links as the old one. Using a squeeze, one of the pins (see picture above) is pressed out of the circuit - thus the circuit is disconnected. For connection, a new reinforced connecting pin is pressed in (included with new Shimano chains). But the next time you remove the chain, you need to press out the regular pin! Reinforced pin widens slightly 
hole in the chain link, and when it is pressed out, the chain will be weakened in this place (a break is possible). There is an opinion that it is better not to use a reinforced pin at all, but to press in a regular pin that was removed. Or use a connecting link and everything will be much simpler.
No matter how well you take care of your bike, sooner or later all its components begin to wear out. Therefore, from time to time we have to carry out various maintenance. In this article we will touch on the topic of how to tighten a chain on a bicycle at high speeds and a normal one, how to remove and shorten it if necessary, and what we need for this at home.
In order to more or less understand what we are talking about, you should consider the types of bicycle chains, as well as their design features. On this moment All types of bicycles use single-row roller chains with a pitch of 12.7 mm. Each link consists of outer and inner plates, pins, rollers and rollers.
Depending on the number of speeds, the width changes; the more sprockets, the narrower the chain. Below is a table showing the dependence of the width on the number of stars in the cassette.
| Number of rear sprockets | Possible chain width, mm |
| 1 | from 8.7 to 11 |
| 4 - 5 | 8,7 |
| 6 | 7,8 |
| 7 | 7,3 |
| 8 | from 7.05 to 7.1 |
| 9 | 6,6 |
| 10 | from 5.85 to 6.2 |
| 11 | 5,5 |
Another way they may differ is the presence or absence of a lock. The lock is designed for easier removal and installation of the chain.
How to tension a chain on a simple bicycle
By “simple” we mean a bicycle with one rear driven sprocket. This can be either the classic design of a single-speed bicycle, which has one sprocket in the front and one in the rear, and there is no possibility of changing gear ratios, or bicycles with a planetary hub. Although the latter have the same design (with one driving and driven sprocket), but due to a complex mechanism rear hub, which is essentially an analogue of a car’s gearbox, you can change speeds. These schemes have one thing in common: the chain can be tensioned by shifting the axis of the rear hub. More on this later.
How to understand that the chain needs to be tightened
On bikes that don't have derailleurs or have a planetary hub, checking chain stretch is fairly easy. Pull it down with your fingers until it stops. The distance it has traveled should not exceed 10-15 mm.
But it should be emphasized that the chain should not be overtightened. Therefore, if the chain travel is less than 5 mm when pulled down, it should be loosened. Excessive tension results in greater pedaling effort and increased wear on the transmission, while too little tension can cause it to fly off the front or rear sprockets.
Tension procedure
Turn the bike upside down. Loosen the bolts or eccentrics that secure rear wheel in the grooves (dropouts) and tighten or loosen the chain tension by moving the wheel further or closer from the drive sprocket. Don't forget that it shouldn't be overtightened. After we have adjusted the required tension, we check the perpendicular position of the rear hub axis relative to the longitudinal axis of the bicycle. Tighten the fixing bolts or eccentrics.
There are times when it is no longer possible to move the bushing back. This tells us that the bicycle chain is too stretched and it would be advisable to replace it. But there is another way out. For this we need a squeeze. This device is designed to separate chain links. Thanks to it, you can remove several links, thereby shortening the chain. If you have a similar case, then a separate paragraph below in the article will be brief instructions how to remove extra links.
How to tighten a chain on a bike with speeds
Tension of the bicycle chain of a mountain, road or other bicycle, which uses the principle of throwing the chain onto the sprockets to change gears different amounts teeth differs from those described above. The difference is that it does not have a fixed position, and its tension is provided by the rear derailleur spring. But you should still monitor the degree of stretching. If the chain is too long, it will be more difficult for the rear derailleur to compensate for slack when driving over uneven surfaces, and it will hit your chainstay with great intensity. Of course, you can buy or make a bicycle chain guard yourself. But this will not save you from accelerated wear of the transmission. But also pull the chain on speed bike It's also not worth it. This will lead to poor gear shift precision and increased wear on sprockets and other components.
How to know when the chain needs to be tightened
There are several ways:
We set the speed position when the chain is on the largest front sprocket and the largest rear. Next, take it at the bottom of the front sprocket (as shown in the picture) and pull it towards the front wheel until the rear derailleur reaches the stop. If you have about two “extra” links left, then the chain length is normal.
The second method is a little simpler. We set the position in which the largest front and smallest rear sprocket are used. In this position, the guide roller and the rear shift tensioner roller should be coaxial and perpendicular to the ground.
On double hangers we will use the following method to determine the required length. Let's press on the pendulum until the front sprocket cassette moves to the maximum distance from the ratchet. This is the optimal distance by which the required chain length is measured.
Pull-up procedure
Unlike single-speed bikes or those with a planetary hub, bikes with derailleurs cannot tighten the chain by moving the rear wheel. Therefore, the only way is to remove the chain links. Since this method is common to these types of bicycles, we have included it in a separate section, which is located below.
How to Remove Extra Bicycle Chain Links
In this article we will not consider the “old-fashioned” methods of removing links. It seems to us that there are absolutely no problems in acquiring the necessary tool, and more specifically, a squeezer. Its price is not high (about $4), but the profit is much greater. It will allow you to easily disconnect and remove the chain or remove excess links, as well as put it back together. This tool has two grooves: one for squeezing out the pin, and the second for pressing it in.
Everything else is relatively simple. Having counted the number of links to be removed, we disconnect and remove the chain. To do this, insert it into the squeezer, tighten it with the latch, and slowly turn the knob clockwise.
It is important to do everything very carefully and ensure that the squeeze rod hits the pin of the chain exactly. The pin should not be pushed out completely; to do this, pay attention to the rotation force. At the beginning there will be a tight movement, then a little easier, and at the end it will be tight again. At the last stage we act extremely carefully. Then we disconnect and remove the chain. The pin remains on the outer plate. Then we measure the number of unnecessary links towards the chain where the pin is missing (see figure).
We remove the links in the same way and connect the chain back. To do this, using the same tool, press the pin back.
Afterwards, you need to carefully inspect the location of the new connection. The pin should come out evenly on both sides and the joint should move easily, as should the rest of the links.
You can learn more about using the squeeze by watching the video below.
How to determine when a chain needs to be replaced
The method is based on measuring the length of 24 links. As we know, the length of one link is 12.7 mm, respectively, on the new chain the length of 24 links is 304.8 mm. If the length of this section exceeds 307.3 mm, then replacing the chain is desirable. You can also use the special tool shown in the picture below.
Conclusion
Taking care of your bike is extremely important. As one of our readers wrote, “The way you look after the equipment is how it carries you!” After reading this article, you have fully learned how to tension a chain on a bicycle. Keep an eye on your two-wheeled friend, and he will delight you for a long time with his precise and durable work.
An unexpected breakdown of this part can ruin your cycling experience. And, if on domestic bicycles, where sections of this element are detachable, the locks can be easily separated, then in sports models this is impossible, since this element is a non-separable structure, which can only be removed with the help of special devices.
Since the element is important, on which the adequate operation of the bike depends, a special approach to it is required.
When to remove the chain
You need to remove a part when you need to shorten or lengthen it, i.e. remove or add teeth, and, in addition, to:
- clean (wash);
- lubricate;
- replace, if impossible to repair.
How to remove a chain yourself using a squeezer
Even one-piece, it is easy to remove with a squeeze.
Perform actions in the following sequence:
- select the area you want to disconnect. If the element has been disassembled more than once, select a previously unrepaired link;
- a link is inserted into the squeeze so that the clamping axis and pin are opposite;
- the part in the chain squeeze is fixed with a screw;
- to push the pin out, rotate the handle of the device;
- when the pin is pressed out, the links are removed;
- the outermost ones are connected, making sure that the pin, which is located “in the cheek”, looks outward, i.e. He “looks” at the repairman making repairs. The part is first passed through the switches, after which two links are placed on top of one another, making sure that the pin coincides with the bushing;
- The “cheeks” are opened with pliers. The pin extending outward prevents the links from coming apart once they are in place;
- To press a pin into the hole, the squeeze is inserted into the link so that the axes of the rod and pin ideally coincide, and the funnel is turned;
- Next, check that the “cheeks” of the pin links are symmetrical. If this is not the case, they will have to be corrected;
- the connected links are checked for mobility. If they are motionless, the position is corrected using pliers.
Important: when installing this part on a high-speed vehicle, it must be positioned as shown in the drawing diagram on the rear switch rollers. It is recommended to install the lock so that it can be replaced multiple times.
How to perform repairs without squeezing
A chain squeezer and chain lock are useful devices that make it easier to maintain and repair an important part of the bike. But they may not be at hand. What to do in this case? There are two ways out: “drag” the non-working bike on yourself or remove the part without a special device. Staying thousands of kilometers from civilization with inoperable transport is not an attractive prospect. So, we choose option two, i.e. We remove the non-functioning part ourselves without squeezing. It is clear that this is difficult to do, but it is possible. There are several known methods of disassembly without squeezing.
Bikes equipped with locks
It is easy to check whether there is a chain lock. It is necessary to inspect the links. If one is found that is different from the rest, then it exists. The chain lock is released when the pins on the links are displaced. The procedure is performed by hand or using pliers. Assembly actions are carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.
Bikes without chain lock
Without squeezing, it is more difficult to remove in this case, and the results will be unpredictable. However, if you have no choice, you will have to try.
To remove the part, use improvised means, performing the following manipulations:
- attach a regular vice to the table;
- The chain is fixed in them by placing a nut on one side so that the hole of the nut and the pin correspond;
- the screw is attached with a head on the opposite side;
- the pin is pushed into the nut hole when the vice is clamped with a ball.
Advice: To remove a part, it is not enough to open only one side. You need to move the link to remove it or continue trying by adding a ball.
After a successful attempt (or an unsuccessful one), the cyclist understands how indispensable a squeeze is: if a chain with a lock that requires repair can be removed from the bicycle, then, regarding this part without a lock, it is extremely difficult to do this without a squeeze. The given instructions will help out in force majeure situations, but you need to work hard.
Video: How to disconnect, rivet, open a bicycle chain. Remove the lock.
GENERAL QUESTIONS ABOUT CIRCUITS
Are the chains used in bicycles the same?
No. Modern bicycles use a variety of chains. When changing the chain, you must take into account the number of sprockets in the cassette (number of gears) this chain is designed for.
I have a bike with 9 sprockets in a cassette, what chain can I use?
Only designed for 9 stars (9, 18, 27 gears). It is not recommended to use such chains on cassettes with fewer sprockets, since the sprockets there are thicker and, in some cases, they can push the chain plates apart.
I have a bicycle with 8 (7, 6) sprockets in a cassette (freewheel), what chain can I install?
If you have 8 stars in your cassette, then only chains designed for 8 stars, if 7 - chains for 7 or 8 stars, if 6 or less - a chain for the corresponding or greater (up to 8) number of stars.
How many gears are Shimano HG chains designed for?
There are two options for Shimano HG (HyperGlide) chains: for 7-8 gears - Narrow HG (for example, the CN-HG50 chain of the Acera / Alivio group) and for 9 gears - Super narrow HG (for example, the CN-HG92 chain, for the Deore XT groups).
What is the standard number of links for a chain?
Chains sold in boxes are usually 114 (Shimano) or 116 (KMC) links long. And if for road bikes or hybrids usually require the use of the entire or almost the entire length of the chain, then for mountain chains only 106-108 links are needed.
I installed a new chain, but it is somehow loose, what should I do?
It is necessary to shorten the chain by several links. If a rear derailleur of the required capacity is used (for example, with a capacity of 43 links, with a 42-32-22 system and an 11-32 cassette - only 41 teeth), the following should be done to select the required chain length. Install the chain on the largest sprockets at the front and rear and shorten the chain so much that the chain tensioner frame is directed almost horizontally forward and allow 2 more links. When the chain is positioned on the smallest sprockets, the rear derailleur frame will be angled backwards.
If you use a rear derailleur with a short frame, you can shorten the chain by a few more links. But in this case, the circuit and switch may be damaged, so you should very carefully approach the choice of gears (not recommended, as there is always a chance to make a mistake). The best option is to replace the rear derailleur with a derailleur with the required capacity.
If you have a dual-suspension bicycle, then you need to select the chain length in the position of the rear suspension in which the system sprockets and cassette sprockets are as far apart as possible.
I bought a squeeze. How to change a chain on a bicycle?
After installing the chain in the guides, do not forget to tighten it from behind with a stop. At the first moment, the force on the handle is quite large, then, when the pin begins to be squeezed out, it drops. You should not push out the entire pin so that there are no problems when installing the chain another time; it is good when it remains in the back cheek of the chain. When reinstalling the chain, turn it over so that the pin is on outside- this is more convenient, and the wear zones will be located a little to the side.
CIRCUIT MAINTENANCE QUESTIONS
Does the chain need to be cleaned and lubricated?
Any device works better and longer if it is regularly cleaned and lubricated, and bicycle chains are no exception. You should always start by cleaning the chain and, if possible, lubricate only a clean chain.
Do I need to wash off the factory lubricant from a new chain?
New chains are lubricated with grease. Her role is twofold. Firstly, it is necessary for preserving the chain during long-term storage, and secondly, it is a working grease like graphite. I recommend removing it from the outside of the chain with a dry cloth to prevent dirt from sticking to it, but I do not recommend washing the chain in solvents before using it.
How can you tell if your chain needs to be lubricated?
The moment when the chain needs to be lubricated is determined by ear. If the chain begins to “chatter” when pedaling under load, it means it needs lubrication; if it runs smoothly and quietly, it should be put aside. If the chain is pre-welded in grease, do not lubricate the chain again, diluting it with chain oil until lubrication is clearly required. Under normal conditions, one lubrication with liquid oil is enough once every 100-150 km. Graphite lubricant lasts noticeably longer. When driving in the rain, the lubricant is washed out much faster.
Which oil is best for chain lubrication?
In general, the chain can be lubricated with any liquid oil. But it is better to use a special oil for lubricating chains, for example, Finish Line, White lightning or oils from Pedro's, since special oils repel dirt, while motor oils have detergent additives, collecting all the dirt on themselves, which is their main downside: In addition to liquid oils, you can use lubricants that thicken after application. It is possible to weld the chain in a plastic lubricant, such as graphite, but the process itself is very labor-intensive.
What is the most effective way to lubricate a chain?
Before lubrication, the chain must be as clean as possible. The chain itself should be lubricated along the gap between the side plates and the rollers on both sides. I use a disposable medical syringe for these purposes - it takes me 0.5...1 cubic meter. see one lubricant. Some people lubricate each pin separately, but I don’t like such fuss and just hold the needle near the gap while pedaling the chain. After lubrication, you should spin the chain for half a minute and wipe it dry. Many people additionally wipe the chain after several kilometers of movement. Do not pour a huge amount of oil onto the chain without wiping it off - this will prevent the chain from working longer.
Why does the chain need to be clean and dry on top?
A lot of dust and dirt very quickly sticks to an oily chain, which is ground and, mixed with oil, turns into a good lapping paste that quickly corrodes the chain. A chain that is dry on the outside will not necessarily be dry on the inside.
What about lubrication of the cassette sprockets and system?
When the chain runs onto the sprockets, the chain rollers roll around the teeth of the sprockets. There is practically no friction between them, so there is no point in lubricating the stars, except in the case of conservation lubricant for long-term storage.
What and how is the best way to clean a chain?
The easiest way is dry cleaning with a regular cloth. But this method is not very effective. You can pre-spray the chain with a lubricant-lubricant: for example, WD-40, AB-80, Weldtite TF-2, or their cheaper Russian-made analogue VT-100. A greater effect can be achieved by cleaning the chain with special brushes and scrapers or, at worst, an old toothbrush. In this case, you can use any solvent, for example, kerosene. The most advanced cleaning method is to use special chain cleaning machines.
Do I need to use some thinner or special oil in winter?
Any oil thickens with decreasing temperature, although modern oils have a fairly flat temperature-viscosity characteristic. The thicker the oil, the better it works in a friction pair, but the more difficult it is to deliver it into the narrow gaps between chain parts. Therefore, I believe that in winter it is quite possible to use regular chain oil, but, if possible, lubricate it in a warm place.
Have you heard that chains on bikes need to be changed, how often should this be done?
You can read more about chains. In short, the chain modern bicycle for a number of reasons it does not last very long; as work progresses, it lengthens. A heavily worn chain, in turn, begins to quickly wear out the sprockets. As a result, after 3000-5000 km you will have to change both. On the other hand, to minimize the cost of replacing sprockets, it is worth buying 2-3 chains and swapping them every 500-1000 km, which will significantly extend the service life of the sprockets, keeping the overall service life of the chains at approximately the same level
If you bought a new bicycle chain that is too long, you will need to shorten it first to ensure safe riding. Also, the chain can “stretch” over time, but shortening it in this case is unwise. This is a sign of wear, and if excessive wear occurs, the stretched chain should be replaced with a new one.
Steps
Part 1
How to remove a chain- If the length of 12 links is within the normal range, and you old bike, then try loosening the rear wheel and moving it back a little. This usually helps solve the problem of chain sag.
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Buy a universal chain squeezer. This tool pushes the pins out of the chain to make it easier for you to remove links. You can also buy a squeeze for specific model bike or chain.
Place the bike on the rack. If you don’t have a rack, you will need a rigid support (it is advisable to turn the bike upside down). This will make it easier for you to remove the chain.
A dirty chain should be cleaned. Use a high quality, environmentally friendly product to dissolve dirt and grease. This will make it easier for you to work with the chain and find the closing link.
Find the closing link. Some chains have a closing link. The link is fairly easy to spot as it is usually a little darker or lighter than the rest of the chain. It may also have protruding rollers that are secured by an outer plate. This plate usually has a large oval hole around one or two rollers.
Pedal until the master link is between the front and rear gears for easy access. The link is fairly easy to spot as it is usually a little darker or lighter than the rest of the chain. It may also have protruding rollers that are secured by an outer plate. This plate usually has a large oval hole around one or two rollers.
- If there is no closing link on the chain, then separate the chain using a squeezer. These steps are described in the next section.
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Unfold the master link, remove it and store it in a safe place. There are several design options for such a link. Some rotate on a hinge and allow you to remove the roller, while others can be opened by bending. Some closing links are disposable and can be removed with needle nose pliers or a special tool.
Lock the next chain link. Start at the end of the chain that is not attached to the trailing link. Secure this link with a clamp or chain release clamp.
- If there is no closing link on the chain, then start from any link in the chain.
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Press the bead out of the sleeve. Place the pin exactly above the link shaft. Slowly rotate the squeeze handle clockwise and stop when the bead comes out but is still locked inside the link. You don't need to fully squeeze out the roller, otherwise it will be extremely difficult for you to assemble the chain. If you do accidentally squeeze the pin completely out of the bushing inside the chain link:
- Insert the bead into the center of the link.
- Using a chain wringer, remove top part connecting link.
- Using a chain squeezer, reinsert the bead into the link and press until the head of the bead is flush with the center of the link.
- Place the top of the link in place, then press the bead in again using a squeezer.
- If necessary, adjust the adjacent link.
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Repeat for the second roller and disassemble the link. Move on to the next roller of the same link. Press it enough so that the outer plate can be removed, followed by the central part, which is attached to the next link.
Remove other links to shorten the chain. Remove minimally required amount links (usually less than five). The shorter the chain, the higher the stress on the links.
Change the chain promptly. Count 12 links to measure their length from the first to the last roll. The distance between the rollers should be 30.5 centimeters. If this distance exceeds 30.8 centimeters, then the chain must be replaced. The need for replacement is due to wear on the rollers, as a result of which the chain becomes longer.
Part 3
How to assemble a chain-
Install a trailing link on both ends of the chain. This may require pliers or a screwdriver. Align the two links so that the beads can be snapped into the locking link between them.
- If the chain uses a disposable closing link or special pin, you should purchase a spare replacement part in advance. Most often, special rollers consist of two elements that are inserted from opposite sides, but it is better to familiarize yourself with the instructions for your specific model.
Fine dust entering the chain, which is already under load during movement, leads to wear on the pins (axles) connecting the links and, as a result, to elongation of the chain. After a long period of use, the chain may sag and slip on the sprocket. To prevent this from happening, the chain is shortened by removing extra links.
You will need
- – bicycle chain squeezer;
- – pliers.
Instructions
Disconnect chain. To do this, install the squeezer on the chain link so that the squeezer rod is located exactly opposite the pin. Rotate the knob to bring the rod into contact with the pin. Check their alignment.
Rotate the knob with enough force to move the pin out of place. Carefully press it out until its end is at a distance of 0.3-0.5 mm from the inner surface of the opposite cheek (protrudes slightly from it).
Remove the chain squeezer using sufficient force. If necessary, use needle nose pliers to separate chain.
Determine the number of links that can be removed. To do this, skip chain, bypassing the rear speed derailleur, through the front and rear large sprockets. By placing one end of the chain on top of the other, determine the number of links that can be removed without losing the chain's connectivity.
Remove extra links. When removing links, use a squeezer as described above. The only difference in the operations is that in this case the pin can be pressed out completely.
Connect chain. When connecting the chain, place it so that the pin located in the cheek is directed towards you. Pass one end of the chain through the rear and front derailleurs and connect the ends by inserting a narrow half link between the jaws of a wide one. The pin should align with the hole in the bushing and fit slightly into it due to the fact that it protrudes above inner surface cheeks.
If this requires slightly loosening the cheeks, use pliers. When the ends of the chain are in place, the protruding pin should prevent the chain from disconnecting. However, if it becomes necessary to maintain the ends of the chain in the assembled position, ask someone to help you.
Press the pin into the hole. Insert the squeeze onto the link to be connected so that the axis of its rod exactly coincides with the axis of the pin. Rotate the knob to press the pin into the hole. Check the symmetry of its position in relation to the cheeks of the link. If necessary, adjust its fit. Check the mobility of the links at the connection point. If it is broken, work out the hinge using pliers.
Edited: 03/10/2017
In the last article we looked at the question of how.
One method involved removing the chain from the bicycle. A natural question arises - how to quickly and easily remove a chain from a bicycle.
The first thing I want to say right away is that it is best to work with a chain while wearing gloves - there is less chance of getting your hands dirty with oil and then having to wash them for a long time. But, in general, this advice is not for everyone.
Here you need to understand the following: chains come with a special lock and chains without a lock.
Locks and chains differ in the type of locking. In a multi-speed chain, the rivets should practically not protrude above the side plates, otherwise they will interfere. A locking link for a multi-speed chain consists of two halves, each of which is a jaw with a pin pressed into one side.
Even if your chain does not initially have a lock, it is better to install one when you first remove the chain and decide to wash it. Believe me, it will be much easier to remove and install the chain in the future. There are many separate locks sold online for a wide variety of chains, both single-speed and multi-speed models.
Removing a chain that has a special lock on it
Removing such chains is easy and simple, it takes 1-2 minutes. You simply release the lock and the chain is removed.
There are even special tools for this and they can be purchased online or in specialized bicycle shops. They work both in expansion and compression, so that they can be used to remove and install the lock.
But our man is not looking for easy ways, and not every bicycle lover agrees to spend money on such tools, so all this can be done with the help of ordinary pliers or round nose pliers.
If the lock is tight and won't give in easily, you can try to remove it using an old brake or gear shift cable, strong rope or wire. To do this, the wire is threaded between the locking links, as shown in the figure. Using a pair of pliers, we grab both edges and sharply pull them in opposite directions, releasing the lock.
Video on how to remove a chain lock using a rope
Some chains are removed entirely by hand. How this is done is shown in this video.
Removing a chain without a lock using a chain squeezer
Here everything is not as simple as in the previous case, although this also does not present any great difficulties.
In this case, a special tool called chain squeezing (bike squeezing). They come in both separate versions and in the form, which is much more convenient when traveling or at home.
We will now look at how to use a chain squeezer.
First, we select the link that we will disassemble. If the chain is being disassembled for the first time, it can be any link, but it is better to look for the link that was used to assemble the chain at the factory when assembling the bicycle. This pin usually stands out from the rest. If the chain has already been disassembled in this way, then it is better to choose another link, and not the one that was last time. This is due to the fact that squeezing slightly loosens the pin.
Now we just slowly turn the knob, squeezing out the pin. And here is the most important thing: constantly check that the pin does not pop out completely. If it jumps out, it is very difficult to insert it back (even using all the capabilities of the great and mighty Russian language).
One more small point: be careful not to lose the roller from the link in which the pin was squeezed out. Otherwise there will be problems later.
The chain is then assembled in the reverse order. You connect the links, insert the pin, not forgetting about the roller, and use the squeeze screw to press the pin back.
Video on how to remove a chain using a chain squeezer.
Is it possible to remove a bicycle chain without squeezing it?
Of course you can. Nothing is impossible for our people. In distant childhood, when we didn’t have all these devices and tools to remove a chain or link from a bicycle chain, we used an ordinary hammer and a thin bolt or nail.
The chain was placed on a nut or so that the axle was in a narrow crack between the stones on the curb (so that it had somewhere to squeeze out), a nail was placed against the axle and, slowly tapping it with a hammer or just another stone, the pin was knocked out. The main thing was not to knock out the pin completely. The chain was also put back together.
Soviet models withstood this kind of treatment, but modern chains for models are unlikely to withstand such treatment. They are too tender for that. You can simply bend a chain link. So it's better to use a chain squeezer for all these jobs.
